Holland Lops

SNUFFLES--When a rabbit in my barn sneezes, it is a cause for great concern.  I immediately would spray the rabbit with Vanodine (diluted with water) then check it's nose for obstruction or discharge.  If there isn't a foreign object or discharge, I would give the rabbit half a tablet of children's vitamins in an attempt to rule out stress or weakened immune system for at least 3 days.  I would continue to observe the rabbit.  If the sneezing continues, then I would treat with Terramycin powder (1/4 of a teaspoon in a 32 oz water bottle).  This usually does the trick.  If the rabbit doesn't get better, I start medicating with Baytril (22.7 mg).  You give the rabbit 1/2 a tablet crushed and mixed in juice and given through a needleless syringe orally every 12 hours for 7 days.  Do not stop the treatment even if the sneezing stops.  When I am medicating with any kind of antibiotic, I would make sure that the rabbit has plenty of fresh water and a daily supply of hay.  I would also check the rabbit for possible diarrhea and give it Probiotics Paste if needed.  It is also advisable to quarantine the rabbit during the 7-day treatment with Baytril.  Baytril shouldn't be given to babies, pregnant or nursing does.  I also have tried injecting .1 cc/lb of LA 200 subcutaneously (3 treatments every other day for 3 days) but I just hate dealing with needles so this is like a last resort.  rabbit with nose discharge

DIARRHEA--If it's mild diarrhea, I will give the rabbit hay and some old-fashioned oats with it's pellets.  I will also give the rabbit a sliver of banana or a small slice of apple if it's old enough to have fruits.  If it's severe, then I treat it with unflavored liquid anti-diarrhea for 3 days and completely withdraw the pellets, while keeping it on strict all hay and oats diet until the diarrhea stops.  Again, continous supply of fresh water.  I have lost 2 rabbits to diarrhea brought upon by stress and they died within a day.  So, whenever a rabbit comes home with me from a show or from somebody else's barn, I keep a close eye on it for a week...I make sure it's eating, drinking and pooping right.  I do the same thing when I move a rabbit into a different cage.  Some rabbits adapt to change fairly easily while others go into a shock.  Also, make sure that when you're handling a sick rabbit that you are always sanitizing your hands--don't pass on what you are trying to cure.

PARASITES--I deworm my herd every 2 months and I rotate among Piperazine (1/2 cc per 32 oz of water), Safeguard Deworming Paste (a pea size for adults and 1/2 of that to 4 week old or older babies), Deworming pellets (2 pieces per adult).  I also treat my rabbits with Ivomec once a year (2-3 drops topically applied on their nape and leg).  I have seen a case with about 3 of my rabbits where there would be a bald spot on the back of their head and I have treated this successfully with Ivomec.  Again, when you are deworming provide the rabbits with a lot of fresh clean water.

VENT DISEASE OR RABBIT SYPHILLIS--I always give the doe a thorough check up before I breed her.  I run my hands on her body to feel her current flesh condition, I look at her teeth and most especially I check her genital area.  I soak a couple of Q-tips in Hydrogen Peroxide and I clean her vents.  I also check for any signs of infection, discharge, lesions or scabs.  If I see lesions or those white pimple-like nodules, I will not breed the doe and would immediately treat her with topical Pen G for about 5 days until the sores are gone.  If I see an indication of Vent Disease, I would still clean the area with Hydrogen Peroxide then treat the rabbit .1 cc/lb of Twin Pen G injected subcutaneously once a week for 3 weeks.  I will only consider breeding this rabbit after it's all better and not before 72 hours after the last injection.  With bucks, I check their genitalia as well to make sure they are clean and don't have any infections.

rabbit with lesions on its face due to auto-inoculation