Holland Lops

HOUSING--I house my rabbits in all-wire powder-coated 24"x24" or 24"x36" tower cages with castors, pee guards and 2" metal pans.  I believe that rabbits need adequate space to move around, run and play.  My 24"x36" cages have a metal shelf in them so the rabbits can hop up and down and exercise their buns.  Each cage is also equipped with a rack or a metal pen holder for hay.  The pen holders also act as toys--they twirl them around in their cages or they stick their heads in and out of them seemingly playing peek-a-boo.

GROOMING--I use a slicker brush on my rabbits regularly and more often when they are molting.  I use a blunt pair of scissors to trim matted coat.  When the babies are about 3 weeks old, I trim the coat on their bellies and bottoms to keep them from getting matted once they start pooping more.  I clip nails every month (with a cat nail clipper) and I especially make sure the does that are about to kindle have had theirs trimmed.  I fear that those long sharp nails might dig into the babies or might get caught on the nestbox as they hop in and out when they nurse.   

CLEANING--It's important to clean your pans regularly to ward off flies and keep the ammonia level in your barn at a minimum.  I line my pans with a horse bedding called Tera Amigo mixed with dehydrated lime and this combination significantly helps with the smell.  I power wash my pans weekly and scrub them with bleach powder.  After every cleaning, I spray the rabbits and their cages with Vanodine.  I scrape the cage floors with a wire brush, sweep the barn then I mop with bleach water and Pine Sol then vaccuum the corners, fans and AC with a Shop Vac. 

 HANDLING--We play with our rabbits frequently.  The minute they hop out of the nestbox, they get a thorough check up.  We take this opportunity to check for possible disqualifications or abnormalities.  When they start eating solid food, I also check them daily to make sure they don't have dirty bottoms.  Transitioning from milk to pellets sometimes cause them to have softer stools that can easily lead to an infection if left unchecked.  Frequent handling dissensitizes them and actually makes them friendlier.  Those that were born in my barn often are the ones to run to the gate to get petted when I walk over.

 HAY--Hay is the most important part of the rabbit diet.  A constant supply of good quality hay, preferably timothy or bermuda, must always be available.  Hay keeps the digestive tract working normally and it's been documented that plenty of roughage reduces problems with hairballs and other blockages.  Plus, it keeps your rabbits busy.

PELLETS--Use a good quality rabbit pellet that is at least 18% minimum in fiber, 2.5% or less in fat, at least 16% in protein and 1.0% or less in calcium.  I give a rabbit 1/2 cup of pellets everyday in the evenings.  Keep the pellets in an airtight container to prevent contamination.  It is a good practice to check the mill date on the package and try to use the pellets within 90 days of this date.  The feed should always be dry and smells fresh.  Avoid the packaged pellets containing dried bananas, nuts, seeds, and puffs.  This product is too high in sugar and carbohydrates and can cause obesity, diarrhea, and other serious health problems. 

WATER--Water should always be available.  I use water bottles in my barn so I know exactly how much each rabbit is drinking.  If a rabbit happens to have not eaten all it's food from the previous feeding, I immediately check the water.  A rabbit won't eat if it's not drinking enough.  I usually put a crock of water in the cage just in case the rabbit's decided to boycott the water bottle.  I also can tell if a rabbit is dehydrated by the quality of coat and the amount of loose flesh on its nape.  If this is the case, I give my rabbits organic apple juice or baby apple juice.  I wash my bottles every week.  A dirty water container is a breeding ground for bacteria that can cause disease.  I use vinegar to disinfect the bottles.  Apple cider vinegar mixed in their water is also beneficial in keeping the good bacteria in their gut.  

VEGGIES & FRUITS--I usually start introducing fruits and vegetables in my rabbit's diet when they are about 5 months old.  I give them a sliver of banana, a small slice of apple or a baby carrot as treats.  I strongly believe in Vitamin A.  Vitamin A helps break down the protein in the rabbit's diet and so I try to give my rabbits fruits and vegetables at least once a week.  I alternate among kale, parsley, cilantro, collard greens or mint.  I especially give veggies to a nursing doe but not when the babies start hopping out of the nest box--you don't want those juvenile stomachs getting a hold of those greens!  I also prefer to give fresh papaya or pineapple slices rather than the tablets when a rabbit is molting.